Redefined Timeline

Welcome to Petra, probably the most well known site in all of Jordan. The ruins were sandwiched between the Red Sea to the south and the Dead Sea to the north. Petra was a maze of canyons, vast open areas, tombs perched high in the sandstone walls, all surrounded by mountains and desert. Often referred to as the “Rose City” because of the pink-ish hue of the sandstone it was carved into, Petra is one of the seven wonders of the world. A little history before I delve into my experience there…

Per our guide, Petra’s past is largely theory, but still better known that Little Petra. Adult Petra was inhabited as early as 7000 BC. The inhabitants of the UNESCO World Heritage site were similar to those of Little Petra. They ranged from the Nabataeans, possibly by the Edomites, the Midianites during the time of Moses, Petra was mentioned in the Hewbrew bible, the city was absorbed by the Romans at one point, and then the Crusaders who eventually abandoned it. Petra was lost until the 19th Century. It was rediscovered again in 1812 by a Swiss explorer. Nomads were living throughout the cave system. The ruins were deemed an UNESCO site in 1985 as a means of forcing the nomads out of the old city. Mercifully, the government did create a new place for them to settle, and many of those people still work on the grounds selling goods and services.

In 363, major earthquakes shook the area, destroying much of the expansive city. In 747, a second severe earthquake rattled Petra, and the people living there evacuated the city in the 8th Century. Petra had always been ravaged by flooding due solely to the geography – canyons funneled the water through the maze regularly when there was heavy rain. The Nabataeans used to use cisterns and dams to combat the floods. In December of 2022, heavy flooding turned deadly and tourists were killed in the canyons as a torrent of water overwhelmed the site. Our guide assured us that measures had been taken to ensure such a deluge of deadly flooding could not happen again. My trust in his word faltering, I searched the sky for rain clouds, but I was only rewarded by night skies. Fingers crossed…

Hellenistic architecture dominated the carved structures, evidenced by the Treasury and Monastery buildings, the two most famous sites in the sprawling city. The face of many of the walls was pockmarked by hundreds of bullet holes made by the local Bedouin tribes that attempted to dislodge silver that were rumored to be hidden within.

We woke before dawn, as our guide said leaving that early was the only way to see some o the buildings without insane crowds. Plus, the earlier to cooler it was – unbearable heat would come by the afternoon. After driving to the parking lot near the museum entrance, we de-vanned and headed for the wide pathway that allegedly lead towards Petra’s meandering canyon system. Given the time, we were navigating the gravel trail by moonlight and no one else in sight.

The canyon walls upon entering Petra were much higher and narrower than those in Little Petra. The grandness of the adult version was immediately obvious. Nor were we walking down a sand pathway, this one was often brick or concrete. It was slightly eerie wandering through in the semi-darkness. Even after the sun broke the horizon, it was unable to penetrate the canyon walls.

After about forty minutes walking through what seemed like endless caverns, we could see a gap gradually appearing up ahead. The scene on the other side was astonishing as the famed Treasury building came into view. Given the early hour, the area lacked the throngs of people I was expecting. Instead we were greeted by the Bedouins selling goods, breakfast items, and trying to convince us to take a ride on their camels. However, we had already been warned against taking them up on a camel ride, as Firas, our guide, explicitly said, “If someone asks you to ride a camel, say ‘yes‘ or say ‘no,’ ‘maybe‘ means ‘yes,'” before going on to inform us we should decline the offer as the camels were very poorly treated.

The remainder of our time exploring Petra was solo or with parts of our group. We had four hours to wander before meeting back at the Treasury. A pathway continued beyond the Treasury to the right. After a short distance it spilled out into an open area providing a view of the Royal Tombs. Tourists stroll passed another amphitheater, former temples, and various other ruined structures. The general trail leads up into the canyon, weaving through elevated trails lined with kiosks packed with goods. Make sure you share the road with the donkeys, camels and other ungulates.

Eventually, the Monastery and restaurant came into view, and by that time, it was crammed with travelers lounging around the many seating areas. That part of site was open and airy, and thankfully, the clouds had continued to hover above blocking the harsh rays from the desert sun.

My Instagram photography lessons were in full swing by the time we visited Petra. While I normally wouldn’t have attempted to “dress up” after waking before the sun rose, I was told by my younger counterparts that my training precluded dressing like a slob. One of them even took the extra 45 minutes to curl her hair with a curling iron… I lack that kind of dedication, and my hair remained in my usual ponytail.

Kaylee, Caily and I each bartered for a few items while we were inside Petra’s walls. My goal was to find a unique gift for the husband. I ended up haggling for a sharp poking instrument that future me would regret. Oops. After many attempts, multiple times walking away, I was able to secure a dagger for the Hubs. We each purchased Frankincense from Mason, a happy gent with a large shop along the route. Mason made his own authentic frankincense using different materials such as herbs, oils, plants and flowers, and even ground stones. The concoction could either be burned to release the scent or rubbed directly on the skin as a perfume. Mason said some have healing properties similar to cortisone and can relieve joint pain.

Much like Little Petra, there were animals galore stalking us through the grounds. Fewer kittens this time, mainly dogs and puppies.

Next up, Wadi Rum’s ever expansive desert, Aqaba and the Red Sea.

November 2023