Redefined Timeline

Driving south towards the Red Sea generally means passing through the ancient city of Karak. Situated on the Kings Highway, Karak had a storied history. It was inhabited beginning in the Iron Age, and its name changed like most people change their underwear during its long history, as did the occupants. The city was even home to ancient Christian communities. Much of its past was unfortunately violent and convoluted. Here were some of the highlights…

The Romans conquered it in 105 AD, followed by bloody wars thanks to the Crusaders around the year 1100. The Crusaders, being the brutal rulers that they were, built a fortress on the top of a hill called Kerak Castle, or “The Stone of the Desert.” The fortress provided 360 degree sight lines of the surrounding area. Next to spill blood on the site was Saladin, a former Sultan of Egypt and Syria. Saladin took hold of Karak after a year long siege. The castle was besieged a few other times during the Ottoman period. Karak was under Turkish rule all the way until 1918, with some other skirmishes mixed in. The British governed after 1918 when yet another battle played out in the city. The violence did not end there…. as recently as 2016, the castle and town were the scene of an attack by a gunman resulting in nineteen deaths. I swear we felt safe while we were there!

Anyway, Kerak Castle sat 3300 feet above sea level. The structure was enormous, having been added onto through time. A fortified castle, the walls were thick and steep, sloped masonry sat a the base making climbing the walls a deadly pursuit for those attempting to overtake defenders of the fortress.

I shall whet everyone’s appetite with a teaser of Little Petra, before jumping into the main Petra site. Originally, I was going to combine Karak and both Petras into one post, but then the sheer number of photos I have of each rendered that impossible. Oh, and for those that find kittens and puppies adorable, they’re everywhere. So here we go!

As the name suggests, the Little Petra was a much smaller version of Petra and thus, far less crowded than the well-known (adult) Petra. Little Petra, or Siq al-Barid or “The Cold Canyon,” was carved into the sandstone walls of the canyons, just like Petra. Thus, Little Petra since the sites so closely resemble one another. However, unlike it’s larger counterpart, less was known about how this one was utilized.

Many caves and structures scattered throughout the area had an unknown use or origin, but a hefty number of were likely used to house traders taking part in the Silk Road. Dwellings litter the walls of the canyons with well worn stairs leading upward. Climbing them was not for the faint of heart.

Since being abandoned, the site was largely inhabited by Bedouin nomads for centuries. Several were lounging about while we wandered through the canyons. Some had set up shop at the entrance to the canyon maze, selling various goods and handmade trinkets.

It is possible to hike through the canyon on a 3.7 mile trail, but a guide was highly recommended since the trail was unmarked. Additionally, tourists were encouraged to embark early as the desert gets quite cold at night with a pitched black backdrop, making the probability of getting lost in the Arabian Desert high. Our group stayed in the three main open areas and their connecting canyons.

The closest town to Petra’s archaeological sites was Wadi Musa, which lies south of the Dead Sea. The name means “Valley of Moses” in Arabic, and it was believed Moses passed through the settlement, discovering water for his followers. Wadi Musa was often used as a base camp for visitors to the Petra Archaeological Park. Hotels are guesthouses were scattered through the town.

I almost forgot about the roommate sagas! After leaving Amman behind, our group got to the next hotel. The Kaylees’ room had two beds, but my room with the Angry Elf (which obviously has become her new name) had three separate beds contained within. The three of us realized we could share that room, giving Angry Elf a dormatory all to herself… everyone wins! Or so we thought. Caily approached Elfling, letting her know she could now have her very own private room without having to pay a single supplement! Normal humans would be thrilled with this prospect, however, Angry Elf was not normal. After furiously moving her luggage one door over to her new, private room, Caily attempted to clear the air. Angry Elf was having none of it, violently slamming the door in Caily’s face. The quake trickled along the walls making all the other doors quiver along that hall. The three of us shared skeptical looks before retiring to our triple room together, astonished at the outcome of the interaction. The saga continued in Wadi Musa near Grown Up Petra, but that’s for another post. And with that bit of drama, Little Petra handstand!

Onward to the main Petra site and it’s famous Treasury and Monastery structures.

November 2023