Redefined Timeline

Peru and the GX Summit was packed with activities that I couldn’t do justice to in a single post. Well, I suppose I could have tried, but that would be overwhelmingly long. In this post, I will delve into the distinctions between the four day Inca Trail hike and the one day-er. There were VERY stark differences to the two treks, each boasting some solid pros and cons.

Back in 2017, I ticked off a bucket list item when the Hubs and I visited Peru the first time to hike the Inca Trail. We trekked from kilometer marker 82 under the iconic Camino Inka-Inka Trail sign all the way to Machu Picchu on the four-day tour. That hilarious saga was detailed in this post: Sorry Jesus…. In 2023, we set off on the one day hike that started on what amounts to half of the 3rd day plus the final day of the four day trek. Both culminated at the Sun Gate overlooking the Machu Picchu ruins below.

The long trek is four days of intense hiking while you camp three nights along the route. The range of elevation is vast, reaching 14000 feet at the highest point. The weather is unpredictable and the altitude plays a huge part in a hiker’s success. There are no showers available, sometimes only basic, disgusting toilets (panoramic toilets are the preferred method). Our tent was not waterproof as the guide had promised. Sore legs are expected each and every night. However, in my opinion, the discomforts are far outweighed by the rewards. The scenery constantly changed – from drier regions to lush rain forests to striking mountain vistas littered with Incan ruins. At one point, I felt like I was back in damp Ireland hiking among the cobblestone walls. The group was wonderful, as we all suffered together and marveled over everything we’d experienced each night. The cooks were top notch, never failing to spoil us with delectable meals, all of which they made from a pot over a propane tank. It was not for the faint of heart, but all walks of life can enjoy it – our group had a 70 year old man, two 20-somethings with unending energy, and an out of shape 40 year old in the mix. We all made it to the finish line!

The hike came to a triumphant end at the Sun Gate, perched high above Machu Picchu where were were rewarded with the sun gently rising over the massive ruins. Since everyone had to leave the final campsite at the same time, throngs of people were huddled in a line waiting for the 0300 hike to begin as soon as the porters departed for the trains in Aguas Calientas. A snails pace was the result, as exhausted hikers were crammed into single-file lines like preschoolers. The brain played tricks on us that early morning as we approached the “monkey steps” – an insanely steep staircase made of narrow rocks that was complete with a sheer drop at the base. A misplaced step could result in death. But once we defeated those anxiety-inducing steps, the Sun Gate was just beyond. Pristine photographs with the ruins below were all but impossible since everyone we’d been walking with arrived there at the exact same time, but the views were sensational nonetheless.

The shorter day hike doesn’t have you rising at oh-dark-thirty, and instead, we enjoyed a short train ride from Ollantaytambo to a kilometer 104 later in the morning. The husband and I were in better hiking condition than all of our hiking partners. In true G Adventures fashion, the guides made sure to compensate for my fitness level and allowed Henry, one of the guides, to accompany us with our intense pace.

There was far less weather change on the day hike, and we enjoyed warm, sunny weather the entire way. Unlike it’s longer counterpart, this hike flaunted completely empty trails. We did not encounter a soul until we were caught by a couple of porters lugging gear up the mountain. Those fast-moving shits blew past us with ease. Hubs made a poor life choice, and provoked me to “catch a porter.” Challenge accepted! I will catch you two Peruvians!!! I turned my speed from quick to blistering. Being champs, Henry and Hubs mostly kept up okay. A short time later, my rapid pace caught the two porters on a much needed break, at which point, they asked Henry to tell me to slow down because I was making it difficult for even them. Challenge accomplished! The views were still amazing, but we were dazzled with far fewer of them with a limited variation than on the four day trek.

The “monkey steps” were much less scary when we were rested, clean and not sore. In fact, the husband and I didn’t even think we’d gotten to them yet when we were standing at the top of them. I’m sure the darkness also makes them appear more laborious. We reached the Sun Gate in the afternoon, and it was completely empty. We were greeted by a horde of butterflies! Not a soul was milling about admiring the view – it belonged to the three of us. Let the picture taking commence!

Back in 2017, Machu Picchu had a much different feel to it. We were given a three hour window to wander the endless pathways throughout the complex. We were allowed to turn around, revisit buildings, and climb on a number of ruins. There were no set paths and you could relax in the grassy areas. By 2023, that was all a figment of my imagination. A strictly set path snakes through the complex, and tourist are not allowed to back track. A set number of people are permitted a set number of minutes on the iconic upper terrace in order to take photos. Gates and rope blocks off a majority of the compound. It had a less magical feel to it all these years later. While I fully understand the need for restricting tourists, especially since it’s beginning to sink again, it was sad to see it in such a rigid way.

Moral of the story… each hike had positives and negatives, but I highly recommend both. Four solid days of hiking was a humbling challenge that I am lucky enough to have completed. The day hike was less draining and still satisfying. I must say my companions on the day hike really did make it a blast!

On to some other details of the day hike and travel summit related to this day…

Anyone that has followed my blog since 2017, or knows me well, is aware that the now husband proposed on that hike, specifically, the first day of the trek on my 33rd birthday. To this day, I have never let him live down that he chose the absolute worst site to pop the question, notably considering we had spent the entire day hiking through the stunning Andes Mountains with a myriad of breathtaking back drops to chose from. Where did he decide to drop to one knee, you ask? Allow me to paint a picture… the sun had set and our astounding views were hidden in the fog of darkness. We were at a campsite on a private farm, huddled in the tiny food tent after a day of sweat-inducing, hot hiking. The aforementioned tent was fully enclosed, stuffy, and we could barely stand up straight inside. We, and all of our hiking companions, were cramped around a dirty folding table while perched atop child-sized stools shoulder to shoulder. Thankfully, the temperatures dropped drastically at night, and our warmer clothing was keeping our stench mostly contained.

Fast-forward seven years to the day hike in 2023. My incessant tormenting apparently sparked an idea in the husband’s head. As Henry, Hubs and I were wandering around Machu Picchu awaiting the rest of our group, Hubs produced the white, plastic ring from a water bottle – the prickly ring that’s left behind when you separate it from the remainder of the lid. Once again in this splendid country, he dropped down to one knee and re-proposed while Henry served as the videographer. Hysterical laughter ensued, we snapped some more photos, and then moved on with our day. The husband and I assumed that was the end of it. G Adventures’ guides had other ideas. Two of the guides that were here for the summit had also been our guides back in 2017, one of which was present for the original proposal. It’s a small world.

When we entered the restaurant for dinner that night, we were accosted with an array of flowers, a bottle of champagne, and an extravagant dessert in celebration of our engagement (at the time, we had already been married six years). Many photos were taken with us and the guides, one of which was our guide in 2017. In the pictures, we can see the awkward looks plastered across our faces as we whispered to each other everything from, ‘what do we do?’ to ‘we didn’t actually just get engaged.’ to ‘do we tell them?’ We settled on keeping our mouths shut, and instead filled them with champagne and cake.

A few fun facts provided to us by Henry:

• The foundations of the buildings and temples differs depending on the importance of the place being entered.
• Llamas are larger than alpacas and can handle the altitude, so it’s only llamas milling about Machu Picchu.
• Always pour the first sip of your water bottle onto the ground as a thanks to Pachimama (earth).
• Llama parking 101 – don’t get behind them.
• Sun temples all have seven windows.

Much like our first experience in Machu Picchu, handstands were strictly forbidden. I got yelled at a second time for executing one. This time, however, Henry interceded and convinced the angry park ranger into letting me do it as long as no one else was around to witness it. Including him – he actually turned his back to me to ensure some plausible deniability should I get caught.

The original is hard to beat… Who did it better, past me from 2017 or 2023? The two below are from 2017 when I was deliriously tired just after sunrise.

I’m on a roll now that I have some free time. Next up, Rainbow Mountain, the women’s weaving cooperative, cooking classes in Cusco, and the final recap of the GX Peru Summit!

September 2023